TRANSFORMATION STORY OF A ZAMINDARI DURGOTSAV TO BAROWARI PUJA

Kaushik Chatterjee

“Chalat Chal Chalat Chal Chalat Chal, Nodir Kache Golpo Bole Nodir Jol”, (Splash! Splash! Splash! The sound of the river tells the river story). In one side the river Mahananda flows and on the other hand, it’s tributary Buri Mahananda. In between these, there stands the old dilapidated Palace. The place is known as Churamon. If ever you place your foot here you may go to the history of ancient times.  The late night moonlight seems to cover the stones and brick, which is the witness of the long and rich history of the palace. River Mahananda splashes in the ghats of the palace like every before. You can easily perceive the 400-year-old afternoon sunlight of the palace garden. Jagat Ballav Choudhury was the zamindar of this place when Emperor Akbar was there in the Mughal thrones at Delhi. Jagat Ballav Choudhury had established the Sri Sri Durga Mata Mandir for the benefit of his subjects. From that time itself, the Durga Maa is being worshipped here every year. The Palace corridors were the place of Dhunuchi dance, Dhak music.  Operas used to be booked from Kolkata and they came through the Mahananda route to this Zamindar Palace. All the nights of the festivities “The Jatra’s” were organized here. All the people of this place from different castes like Brahmins, Baishnabs, Haari, Patni, Jeles etc. all used to enjoy the festival together. So many sounds and so much excitement were witnessed by the people here during those days. From that time itself this place had become one of the examples of communal harmony. A little ahead lay the ramshakled Shiva Temple. Adjacent to the temple a flag of a Muslim saint was hoisted every year. In every dasami this flag used to be changed. The tradition continues still. A local Maulavi is being invited to change the flag. The maulavi generally hoists the flag in red salutikor cloth. The villagers then were distributed with Sinni, Monda and Sugar lollipops.

The Dilapidated Zamindari Shiva Temple at Churaman Zamindar Palace

This time, also the Durga Corridors of the Zamindar palace is witnessing the Century old Durga Puja. The older generation is busy in their adda, card games and small peals of laughter under the tree. They are also supervising the Durga Pratima building. Abani Das, Probodh Ch Das and Purna Ch Das can still remember the Buffalo sacrifice during the Durga Puja in this Zamindar Palace. Now the big buffalo is being replaced by Goat. They further said that in the yesteryears there were huge feasts in the palace. Now everything is gone. The new generation of the Zamindar family stays elsewhere for their livelihood. However, everyone comes back to the village during the Durga Puja days. However, due to the paucity of funds, the puja is being organized by the villagers by subscribing. The king, the dynasty, the grandeur may have been forgotten but the legacy of celebrating Durga Puja at the Zamindar Corridor corridors. The Mahamaya of the palace has now become universal. Devi UMA has become everyone’s own Daughter.

Photos: Kaushik Chatterjee
Translation: R. Subrata (TNI Siliguri)